I’m a big fan of fixed blade knives. I carry one hiking (a Gerber Prodigy in case you’re wondering) and it’s an essential part of my SAR mission kit. They’re handy for anything from prying to cutting rope and webbing. They also serve well for survival tasks such as shelter building and  fire making.

There are situations however when a larger blade is called for. While utility knives with blades from three to six inches can accomplish these chores, larger and heavier blades can perform them more efficiently and for longer periods of time. They are also needed for winter survival situations where more wood is needed for larger fires and more durable, insulated shelters. Large survival knives and axes are often the tools of choice for such tasks.

But which one do you use?

Axes
Axes are tried and true outdoor tools. As the years go by, designs have been improved and revamped for bushcrafting and tactical applications. Different companies and designers will offer radically different options. Some hatchets and tomahawks will be for outdoor and survival use while others tailored for prying, breaching and combat.

Axes offer some distinct advantages. They are heavy and the mass behind the blade allows for good chopping to make kindling. Choking up on the head gives better control for finer tasks such as tinder preparation. Some hatchets will have secondary blades behind the primary edge specifically for detailed work.

There are downsides to consider. The head-heavy nature of axes requires care as they can be difficult to control when chopping. Safe use requires proper stance as well as placement of whatever the user is cutting. Another disadvantage is the cumbersome nature of the tool. While finer tasks can be done for fire making and shelter building, food preparation and other detailed work may require a small knife to achieve even for experienced users.

Large Survival Knives
I define a large survival knife as a knife with a blade that is between eight inches and twelve inches long and 3/16 of an inch thick or greater. These knives are shorter, but thicker and than most machetes and usually have a harder steel.

Large survival knives can accomplish a large variety of tasks from shelter building to food preparation when properly handled. They can chop wood as well as split kindling using a batoning technique. Some knives are made with finger choils that allow the hand to be placed forward closer to the blade for fine tasks.

Some also allow the user to easily lash the knife make a spear if the situation calls for it. Knives also tend to be lighter than hatchets and tomahawks.

There are some disadvantages to the large knives. Safety is an obvious issue when it comes to chopping and tasks where your body is close to the blade. Another common issue is quality and construction. Ergonomics are incredibly important in the handle and some manufacturers create handle shapes that create quick fatigue in the hand during use.

Which big blade to put in your outdoors or survival kit is up to you. Be sure to choose a good manufacturer and that the steel and sheath are both strong. Also consider your current set of skills and how well you will be able to use the tool to accomplish your tasks in a stressful environment.

The Bolt Bag from 215 Gear is a solid, USA made bag that works as an E&E pouch on a MOLLE pack or bag. It can also stand alone as a get home bag for your vehicle.

Construction
The Bolt Bag is made of 500 Denier Cordura Nylon and is manufactured at 215 Gear’s location in Virginia Beach, VA. The material resists abrasion and also has a water resistant coating. The material did not show any signs of tearing when dragged on course concrete with two three-pound weights secured inside.

There was no sign of water penetration when sprayed with 16 oz of water across the front. The material seems like it would keep items dry in a short drizzle, but could leak through if outdoor excursions call for long periods in the rain.

The bag also comes with a detachable nylon strap with metal g-hooks. 215 Gear also provides a pair of MOLLE Stix for attaching the Bolt Bag to a larger pack or bag.

bolt bag
Packed with the necessities
Small enough to stash for a quick getaway
Small enough to stash for a quick getaway

Comfort
The bag does not have any padding either in the main body or on the strap, which limits the weight the user can carry comfortably. With this in mind, I found that the bag best carries loads around five pounds. The nylon strap is two inches wide, which keeps it from digging into your shoulder. The placement of the tabs where the strap hooks in keeps the bag at the eight o’clock and four o’clock positions on my hip. The strap’s orientation keeps it from swinging around while walking.

Organization
The bag is 450 cubic inches (a little more than seven liters) and has three internal mesh pockets. Two are billowed pockets secured by shock cord and one is a zippered pocket that takes up one side of the pack. With a lightweight load a user could organize food and water in one billowed pouch and first aid and survival gear in another.

The mesh panel pocket can secure hold warmer items such as a hat and gloves and can also be used for a map, compass and other admin equipment. Gear can also be secured to the bottom of the interior by two webbing loops. The pack is also large enough to hold a light layer as well such as a fleece or windbreaker.

Ideal Uses
215 Gear designed this bag carry essential items while out and about and the bag is well equipped to do so. Its size and shape allow it to sit securely under a car seat, provided the user does not over pack. 215 Gear lists the dimensions as 10 inches long, 12 inches wide and 3.75 inches thick.

The shape can get warped if bulky items are stuffed inside. The bag fit snugly under the seat of my car with food, water, first aid and hat and gloves inside. I also tucked the strap between the driver’s seat and side console. This allowed me to pull the bag out while seated.

The bag also works well for adding capacity to another pack for keeping essential items handy. For military or law enforcement personnel, the bag can keep essentials for situations where rapid movement is a priority or for escape and evasion.

If you’re looking for a versatile bag that’s perfect for quick getaways, the Bolt Bag from 215 Gear is the perfect choice. Want to learn more about 215 Gear and put their gear to work for yourself? Click here!

Understanding the 215 Gear EDC pry tool first calls for a look at how small, one-piece tools became an item many view as essential for every day carry.

One piece tools now flood the market in a variety of shapes and sizes. Some are simply carabiners with a hex driver while others carry box wrenches, line cutters, different screw drivers and other items all in one piece of metal. Tools quickly evolved to carry as many features as possible in one small package. The benefits included light weight and the ability to keep them on your person while traveling (experiences with air travel may vary).

Unfortunately, there’s only so much a small tool can fit while keeping a form that allows the tools to function. Some tools place items that can create discomfort and even injury to the user. A one-piece tool should carry useful components while carrying a form that allows the user to employ them without worry of injury or tool failure.

That’s where 215 Gear seeks to make a difference with its EDC Pry Tool.

The EDC pry tool is made of 6AL4V Titanium Alloy. The tool is four inches long, one inch wide and weighs in at a tenth of a pound. The length, width and long clip allow it to fit into MOLLE webbing or sit flat in a pocket. There’s also an essential bottle opener.
The prying edge of the tool is terraced, which 215 says will assist in prying. The terracing provides a flat surface to apply force on whatever you’re prying rather than the traditional angled end of a crowbar.

The slim design of the EDC Pry Tool was comfortable and strong enough for every day carry. For bigger tasks like heavier wood pallets or crates, go with a longer and more robust tool.

Surprisingly, the EDC pry tool’s first terraced edge split off after a few tries at prying up a strong wood pallet (the kind used in commercial shipping). The purpose of using a pallet was to simulate opening a nail sealed item such as a crate. I noticed the front start to bend after three tries at pulling up one of the boards. It broke off after three more tries.

For smaller jobs though the EDC is on point. For a simpler test, I nailed a pair of two by fours together with a single nail. Even with the thin front end gone, I was able to wiggle the tool in and pry the wood pieces a quarter inch apart and free the nail. A few more similar tests found that this was not a fluke even with a longer nail length for the wood pieces. There are limits to how far apart the tool can pry, but it can pry well for a small hand tool.

If you’re looking for a versatile one-piece tool that’s comfortable for pockets and bags, the EDC Pry Tool from 215 Gear is the perfect choice. Want to learn more about 215 Gear and put their gear to work for yourself? Click here!

You can spend hundreds of hours training and preparing yourself for disaster or emergency. You can have a good plan and route and backups for both. But then there’s the time when Murphy’s Law kicks in and things start going south.

From there, your best option may be to hunker down and call in the cavalry. That’s when it pays to have the right gear and skills to make sure rescuers are able to find you and get you out.

Below, we’ll go over the various methods to alert emergency responders to your situation and location.

Communication
Today’s technology provides a variety of ways to directly communicate with responders. Each option has distinct advantages and disadvantages. Remember, each device relies on precious electricity. Also, it pays to know where you are and be able to provide a reference point or coordinates for quicker rescue.

1. Cell Phone – Many people own a cell phone of some kind and a fully charged device can be an easy way to call 911 in case of an emergency. Some models allow batteries to be replaced for long term use and a variety of solar chargers are available for others. The biggest con to this is that service is limited and sometimes not available in the backcountry and can be out altogether in a disaster.

2. Satellite Phone – These allow a more reliable way to get in touch while travelling in remote areas. The main disadvantage to these is that the devices and service plans can be quite expensive.

3. Radio – Two-way radios can allow users to directly communicate with teams and bring them to a designated location. Although readily available to the public, they do require a bit more training to effectively use than cell phones. Most radios allow users to switch batteries with spares during long periods of use.

4. Personal Locator Beacon – These tools are essentially a distress signal. When activated, they send a signal to the beacon’s company via GPS, who will then communicate with the appropriate agencies for search and rescue. The main con is that many do not allow the user to communicate directly with an operator to specify the situation. Remember, the more a rescuer knows about where you are and what’s going on, the faster and safer they can extract you.

Audio Signaling
5. Whistle – Many outdoor packs come with a whistle built into the sternum strap. If yours does not, make sure you have one close at hand. Three bursts of a whistle is the universal call for distress.

6. Shouting – Simply yelling will be enough if you hear a rescue team hailing for you. Keep your noise up, especially if you can hear a team walking towards you.

Visual Signaling
7. Lights – Flashlights and headlamps can be very useful in the dark. Flashing three times towards a team will alert them to your position and also conserve your batteries. Some lights and headlamps also have a built in strobe feature that can run for several hours. This can be especially useful for signaling rescue aircraft. We use the feature in my SAR unit for marking pick points for helicopters.

8. Flares – Flares are an effective method of signaling and are commonly used at sea. Handheld flares can be waved to attract attention while others can be shot in the air to signal over tree lines or other cover. Make sure you’re aware of your surroundings. The last thing you want to do is start a fire in the spot you want to get out of.

9. Signal Fire – One of the oldest ways of signaling. You can build it as high as you like depending on fuel and have the added benefit of warmth and cooking ability. Keep in mind that you want to keep absolute control over your burn. Do not start a signal fire if you are in a dry, wooded environment or when there are high winds.

The expert team at Vanquest has done it again. They’ve given us a lightweight way to attach existing MOLLE gear and other items to a hook and loop surface that doesn’t require any new purchases. We put it in the hands of our gear tester to see how it works in the wild.

Tactical nylon companies have recently been expanding their selection of packs and bags that carry internal hook and loop panels for attaching pockets and pouches for organization. Some will offer items that scrap traditional admin pockets for hook and loop.

An Economical Solution to a Tactical Problem

The advantage to this is that the end user can completely configure the bag or pack to meet mission requirements down to the finest detail. The disadvantage is that the end user needs a separate set of hook and loop backed pouches to effectively use the product since MOLLE pouches will be incompatible.

Quality nylon gear isn’t cheap and many users are not willing or can’t afford to purchase a new set of pouches to create an effective system around a new product.

Another option is to use a hook and loop adapter, which is where the Vanquest MOHL system comes in. The MOHL (MOLLE onto Hook and Loop) system is a lightweight set of panels that allows the end user to attach MOLLE pouches and other items to a hook and loop surface for a fraction of the cost of purchasing new pouches. (Continued below photos)

Two Options to Tackle Anything the Wild Can Throw at You

Vanquest offers two items in the MOHL system. The first is the MOHL-Air, which allows the user to attach a MOLLE pouch to hook and loop surfaces. The panel comes with six tabs that wrap around the MOLLE webbing on the back of the pouch and secure it to the panel. The user can then attach the pouch to a hook and loop.

Users can also weave pouches with MOLLE straps through the panel. The MOHL-Air panel worked well in securing the FAT-Pack 7×10 pack to the back of the Falconer-27 pack. The hook and loop on the MOHL-Air is quite tacky and the pouch easily stayed put on the pack.

The second panel in the system is the MOHL-Web. This is a panel with a web of shock cord woven through. This panel is particularly useful for keeping bulky items such as water bottles or hard cases from moving around inside a pack.

The panel we received was part of a first-run batch and only allowed attachment of a four-inch diameter water bottle. Vanquest reported that the panels on the market now have six inches more of shock cord and can accommodate larger items.

The MOHL system of panels offers a big advantage in modern pack organization. They’re quite useful for a variety of loadouts and offer a significant cost benefit over purchasing a new set of pouches to accommodate new bags with hook and loop panels inside. For the cost of a new hook and loop pouch, a user could purchase two or three MOHL panels and customize a bag or pack to fit their needs.

This is a well-built 27-liter backpack that offers the user near limitless options for organization with a plethora of webbing, cord, and hook and loop options. It thrives in a variety of environments and is well suited for day hikes and daily commutes. Need to get out of town quick? Travel and bailing out are easy with this pack suited for performance under pressure.

Construction

The Falconer-27 is constructed with 1000 denier Cordura fabric with 210 denier nylon lining the pockets. The Cordura body is also Teflon coated which will resist intrusion from splashes and short drizzles. The fabric is durable and holds up well to abrasion from rough surfaces. The straps and grab handle are box stitched and hold up well to being handled and mishandled on trail.

In one test, I found that the fabric resisted tearing from a short drag on rough asphalt while loaded. On another run of that test I saw that the zipper and compression strap had been torn. I looked back at the surface of the asphalt and found that several sharp, jagged protrusions had hit the pack against where I was storing a pelican case and steel camp stove against the pack. That’s more my fault and I don’t hold that against the pack’s construction as that kind of weight and edge would probably tear any fabric. I believe this pack will stand up well to long outdoor use and abuse, provided you don’t force it on a cutting surface.

Comfort

Despite only having a thin plastic sheet between the mesh back panel and hydration compartment, the Falconer is quite comfortable with loads in the 20 pound range. The shoulder straps are ergonomic and carry the load well, especially with the load lifters on top. I did have to play around with the sternum strap a bit before finding a setting that brought the straps away from my shoulder socket and more towards my chest. The two-inch webbing hip belt is not padded, but it helps engage the lumbar pad on the pack.

Organization

If you lose something in the Falconer-27, you’re probably doing it wrong. The front admin pocket opens up to reveal two shock cord ladders, two stacked rows of webbing, a secondary pocket secured by hook and loop and four small slots. This pocket can organize anything from first aid supplies to survival gear to electronics equipment. I was able to load a flashlight, notebook, pencil, different firestarters, water purification, chem lights and other things here.

The top pocket has a divider with four webbing slots. This allows organization of smaller items and is also large enough to store a pair of ski goggles. There are four rows of MOLLE webbing on each side with two columns each to attach more pouches or in my case a survival knife. The secondary compartment has three pockets and a small panel of loop Velcro for attaching pouches.

The main compartment has a full panel of loop Velcro on each side as well as loop panels on both sidewalls. There are also a Velcro secured pocket on the side opposing the backpanel. On the edge of the back panel is a row of molle going from top to bottom. The hydration compartment is also lined with loop Velcro. I found the compartment to be too tight for a 100 oz. Camelbak Omega Water beast reservoir. The lower profile 100 oz reservoirs on the market may work out better but I recommend using something in the 70 oz. range to keep the back panel from ballooning on you with a full main compartment.

Ideal Uses

This pack can thrive in a variety of environments. The appearance isn’t totally tactical and it doesn’t have MOLLE webbing all over it. The pack can bike to work with you and carry your electronic essentials in the organizer pockets. A 15-inch laptop can be secured in the main compartment and the hydration compartment will easily fit smaller laptops and most tablets. It’s large enough to carry a spare clothing and travel essentials but compact enough to fit in an airliner’s overhead compartment. The size and durability also make it ideal to hold survival essentials inside for the time when you’re driving and forced to leave your vehicle in order to make it home.

Find out More about Vanquest Gear

You can find more by visiting the Vanquest Tough Built Gear website at www.vanquest.com or get right to the backpack right here.

Don’t trust your first-aid and rescue supplies to anything less than the best. We test out the latest from the gear professionals at Vanquest, the sturdy and versatile FATPack 7×10.

Rick is a member of Eugene Mountain Rescue, a specialized team in the Lane County Sheriff’s Office Search and Rescue Program. He frequently uses outdoor gear in Search and Rescue (SAR) operations. We asked him to put some gear to work and test it’s performance. 

I carry a considerable amount of first aid equipment when on SAR missions. My kit will contain essentials for treating common back country injuries such as sprains, fractures and bleeding along with dozens of band aids and other small items for treating the small wears and tears that happen in the outdoors. On top of that, I will also carry patient packaging materials and survival equipment such as space blankets, hand warmers and small packs of emergency water.

As I expanded my supplies to fit my mission, my pouch started stretching and becoming more inconvenient to use. At the time I was using a Red Cross pouch that had so far proven to be a trusty companion. However, pulling it out of my pack in rainy or wet conditions started feeling more and more like trying to palm a basketball.

I saw the need for a new pouch and started looking around online. I was interested in a MOLLE system because I could attach it to the outside of my pack for security while using or to my climbing harness when moving in confined areas. Almost all the MOLLE Pouches I found were either small and designed to fit the essentials for treating a gunshot wound or other trauma or too large and lacking the organization that I needed.

Enter the FATPack 7×10.

 

Organized Essentials for Quick Access

I was curious about Vanquest’s latest first aid pouch offering because of its size and unique manner of organizing kit. The pouch has four pockets, elastic bands, a shock cord ladder and small zippered pouch for holding first aid essentials. The design of the pouch is essentially an expanded version of Vanquest’s FATPack pouches. Those and similar pouches had caught my eye earlier but appeared to be too small for my needs.

I was able to fit larger dressings and patent packaging material in the larger internal pockets and a small poncho inside a hidden external pouch in the front of the pouch. Smaller items such as alcohol wipes and band aids fit into the shock cord ladder. The small zippered pouch fits a set of gloves along with aspirin and small packets of antibiotics and hand sanitizer.

Another striking feature of the pouch is how it’s opened. When attached to a MOLLE surface, all you have to do is pull the top handle and it will open up to display all of your equipment. If you’re using the pouch as a stand-alone item, I recommend putting a non-locking carabiner on the tab on top of the back of the pouch to make a secure spot to grab the pouch and open it with two hands.

Durability to Endure Tough Climates and High-Pressure Rescue Operations

To top it off, the pouch is made of 1,000 denier Cordura fabric with a 210 denier orange rip-stop nylon interior. The Cordura is treated for water resistance, although I personally prefer to keep my first aid items inside at the top of my pack away from the elements.

This pouch is a game changer for me. My gear is more accessible and secure at the same time. It’s a far easier item to grab out of my pack even when wearing wet gloves.

Even though it’s a solid pouch, there are still some modifications to be made on my end. I’ll be adding the aforementioned carabiner at the top for easier two handed use when not carried on a MOLLE pack. While the pouch comes with two hook and loop tabs for securing shears, I find that these are difficult to use while wearing gloves and could cause issues in colder environments. I recommend buying a separate dedicated pouch for shears. This pouch can be attached to the FATPack via webbing on both sides on the pouch. An optimal setup would be shears on one side and a tourniquet on the other if those are necessary parts of your kit. I would also love to see the pouch in red or orange for first responders.

Overall, I’m impressed with this product. Expect a follow-up review sometime down the line after this pouch has logged some mission time.

You can find out more about Vanquest Tough Built Gear at their website here. Want to see more modular pouches and pockets from Vanquest? Click here.

Outdoor adventures always carry the chance for close encounters with a wild animals. Most don’t require any preparation or defensive measures, but some do. In areas known as bear country, there are measures and precautions outdoorsmen must take to ensure they come out of the situation alive.

What Gear Prevents Bear Encounters?

There is not a lot to pack when it comes to traveling in areas frequented by bears. I have been taught not to carry bear bells, as they do not act as a deterrent or let the bear know you are around. Instead, carry a loud conversation with your group members. Bears in the area will hear you and may leave the area because of your presence. Also carry a deterrent. Bear spray has proven to be the effective against bear species in America, even more so than firearms.

What Can I Do When I See a Bear?

Should you or your group encounter a bear, the first thing to do is keep calm. Make yourself appear big and talk to the bear in a loud, even voice until it moves on. Avoid eye contact, as this could appear aggressive. Don’t split up. This can excite the bear and encourage it to give chase. It can also lead to personal injury while running through unfamiliar terrain, making you even more vulnerable. In a case in New Jersey, a group split during a bear encounter that lead to the death of one of the men.

While backpacking in Yellowstone National Park, I chanced upon a young grizzly. I stood straight and started talking to it. Within seconds, it decided I was not very interesting and continued on its merry way. All that was required was a level headed response.

Remember: Do not put yourself between a bear and cubs. This will incur aggressive behavior from the adult. Also keep clear of a bear that is hunting and do not fish in areas frequented by bears. They will approach if you have food.

If I’m Attacked by a Bear, Should I Fight Back?

Whether or not to physically engage a bear depends on the circumstances of the attack. An offensive attack is generally defined as when the bear is approaching you out of curiosity or with some kind of aggression. In these cases, use your deterrent when the opportunity arises. Should the bear move past that, fight back and try to strike the eyes and nose. Avoid being hit by the paws as they can incapacitate you in a single blow.

A defensive attack is when a bear is defending cubs or a source of food. Grizzlies have been known to mount fake charges when threatened. In these cases, slowly back away while still making yourself appear large and avoid eye contact. If you feel that the bear will attack you, apply your deterrent when it is close enough.

A grizzly encounter is the only situation I’ve ever seen anyone recommend the fetal position in the case of a physical striking attack. In this case, cover your neck and vital organs while remaining as still as possible. Once the bear is convinced you’re not a threat, it will move on. If this does not work and the bear continues to strike, fight back. Try and used a hard or edged tool such as a knife or rock.

The best way to come out of a bear encounter alive is to avoid it.

  • Know if your area is in bear country. If so, make sure you’re checking trails for bear scat and food remnants.
  • Avoid feeding grounds such as streams and rivers full of fish.
  • When camping, hang your food out of reach or lock it in a bear box.

The more aware you are, the better chance you have of going through your adventure without having to worry about a close encounter with a bear.

It starts like a normal day, then a report of a wildfire comes in. In less than 12 hours, it grows to thousands of acres in size and forces people to evacuate their homes. Shelters are set up and people’s property and possessions are at risk.

What do you do? Do you grab your bug out bag? Do you even have one? What’s your plan? Perhaps most importantly, where will you go when you’re forced to leave your home?

Your destination is one of the most important parts of your escape plan in case of disaster. Where you end up will dictate your long-term plan for surviving and thriving when a disaster hits.

When selecting your destination for evacuation in a disaster, take these factors into account.

1. Is it safe?

It makes no sense to move to an area that could eventually be subject to an evacuation order.

2. Does it provide access to food and water?

You will eventually need to restock your supplies. Consider the location’s proximity to fuel, food, water and other supplies.

3. Does it allow you to go to work?

You’ll probably have to go back to your nine to five once you set up shop. Unless told otherwise by your employer, it’s probably good to keep performing your daily life as much as possible unless of course your place of employment is subject to an evacuation or has been damaged or destroyed.

4. If you have kids, does it allow them access to school?

Just because there’s a forest fire doesn’t mean school’s out. Be sure to check with your district to learn about class delays or cancellations all together.

5. How easy is it to get to and how would you get there?

Are you travelling there by land? Water? Air? Have a primary and secondary route for your destination as roads can be disrupted by wildfire activity.

For many people, the destination after evacuation could be a shelter set up by the local government or by a nonprofit such as the Red Cross. These can provide you with a place to sleep as well as nourishment and basic medical services. However, if you have a destination set up already, go there.

Moving to a familiar place will provide you and your party with stress relief as it provides a set of knowns in what can be a chaotic situation. It could be a friend or relative’s house, a cabin or other spot.

In such cases, make sure to plan ahead and know what to do when the time comes to leave. If you’re travelling with your family, make sure you know how to get them to your destination safely. If you’re destination is a friend or family member’s home talk with them beforehand about what your evacuation plan is.

Seasonal disasters such as wildfires and hurricanes allow you a relative grace period to solidify a plan and properly set things up. Everything will come down to your ability to execute when the time comes to move.

If the roads are out or overcrowded, the best way to make it to a safe position may be by water.

In the first part of this series, we discussed the planning and guidelines for setting up a water escape. In this article, we’ll discuss different types of watercraft as well as their strengths and weaknesses. The body of water you are traveling on will often dictate the type of craft that best suits your escape plan.

Canoe
Perhaps the most versatile of paddle powered watercraft; canoes offer speed, of cargo capacity and the ability to carry two or more people. In the right hands, canoes can travel anything from open waters to high rapids. Because of their high sides, canoes can be difficult to paddle in high winds.

Canoes come in different sizes and in different materials. Aluminum canoes are light, durable, and in many cases the most inexpensive option. However, they can be difficult to repair when damaged. Kevlar and other woven canoes offer lighter weight, and allow repairs for minor damage with patching kits. The lighter weight often comes at a higher price. Avoid wood canoes; they are very heavy and can be quite expensive.

While canoes are versatile, there is a steep learning curve to effective paddling. The paddlers in the front and back both need to be proficient with paddling on each side and the paddler in the stern must be able to effectively perform the proper strokes to steer the canoe. Paddling a canoe in rapids is also difficult and requires plenty of skill, training and communication between the paddlers.

 

Kayak
Kayaks can be less expensive than canoes, and are also more intuitive to operate. Kayaks come in a variety of shapes and sizes that dictate what kind of water they can handle.  Although versatile, Kayaks do require practice especially when it comes to escaping and recovering a capsized boat.

White water kayaks can handle harsh rivers with an experienced paddler at the helm. The downside is that many do not come with separate storage compartments for equipment. They can also be difficult to handle on open water because their design is meant for navigating around obstacles in fast moving water.

Touring kayaks are long boats that are at home on open water. Despite their size, they can handle light rapids on large, open rivers. Most touring kayaks have two separate cargo compartments that can store a large amount of gear. Many touring kayaks have rudders that can assist in steering on open water.

Crossover kayaks are shorter than a touring kayak, but offer more cargo capacity than a white water boat.

Open top kayaks are easy to get in and out of and can also handle a variety of conditions. However, they offer limited cargo space. Some will have a set of tie downs or an exposed compartment for lashing down equipment.

Packrafts are a versatile option if your trip involves long portages. Packrafts are relatively cheap and much lighter than inflatable kayaks and can be packed down and carried over land as their name suggests. However, their lighter weight comes at the expense of strength. Packrafts are not mean to be run through heavy rapids with exposed rocks and sharp features.

 

Sailboat
For large bodies of water, a sailboat can be the optimal choice for transporting people and supplies. However, effectively handling a sailboat in changing weather conditions requires years and even decades of experience. Wrong moves can leave you sunk or asunder. Plus, if you’re traveling in a group, those people will need to be familiar with operating a boat and the skills that are associated with being a proficient sailor.